• 2000 Toyota Camry Timing Marks Pdf Free Download

Timing Chain Replacement Instructions

Timing belt at 60,000 miles. Avoid Costly Engine Damage. Change Your Timing Belt. At The Recommended Interval. Interference Engines & Timing Belt. 2.8L V6, 30-Valve *#. A4 Avant & Sedan. Turbo (AMB) *# T306. 105,000 Normal. 52,500 Severe. Statistical Techniques Statistical Mechanics.

The following are instructions on replacing the timing chain in a Toyota 22R/22RE/22RET without removing the head.

Parts needed:

• Timing Chain
• Chain Guides; metal backed are better than the stock plastic ones, two sources for these listed below:
• Chain Tensioner
• T-Chain Cover Gasket
• Water Pump Gasket
• Oil Pump O-ring
• Valve Cover Gasket
• Oil Pan Gasket or Toyota Black Form In Place Gasket (FIPG)
• Ultra Grey Silicone
• Can of Carb Cleaner
• 5 quarts of oil
• Gallon of Anti-freeze
  • Toyota Red recommended plus a gallon of distilled water

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The hardest step in the replacement will be breaking the bolt that holds the puley to the crankshaft. Best option is to break it loose with the engine's starter, tranny in neutral, wire off the coil. Use a 6-point (sided), 19mm, impact socket and a breaker bar long enough to reach the frame rail, then bump the starter until the bolt breaks free. Best to address this step early on in the process, instead of waiting until the engine is torn half-way down and starter operation is not possible. This is step 18 below. Other options include putting the tranny in 5th gear, engage 4WD if possible, e-brake on, chock the wheels and see if the clutch will hold the engine from turning; or pull the starter and try to jam a pry bar into the flywheel teeth to lock it in place. It is a good idea to place the engine at TDC prior to removing the crank pulley from the engine.

1. Drain the anti-freeze from the radiator by opening the small twist valve at the bottom passenger side of the radiator.

(open the fill cap to vent the system and speed the process)

2. Drain the oil.

(If instructions are needed you shouldn't be doing this)

3. Remove the crossover air tube that goes between the airbox and the intake.

4. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses on the engine side not on radiator.

(This way the hoses are out of the way.)

5. Remove the Radiator.

2 bolts on each side.

(Lifts right out)

6. Remove the fan at base.

4 small nuts hold the fan and the cone looking base to the pulley.

(Be sure and do this before removing the belts.)

7. Remove the Distributor.

It is a very good idea to ensure the engine is at TDC prior to removing the distributor. Set #1 piston to the top of it's stroke and the cam gear mark up (12:00 position) and the crank gear mark down (6:00 position).

Good idea to scribe a mark to show where it was set before, handy for getting the timing back close after assembling the engine.

Also note where the rotor ends up when you pull out the distributor. When you reinstall it later, line up the rotor in the proper direction then, when it rotates into position, you'll be sure to be on the right tooth on the drive gear.

1 bolt used to adjust timing and hold it in place.

Set this aside in the engine compartment without removing the wires and be sure to protect the shaft.

Removing this now makes removing the rest of the accessories much easier.

8. Remove the alternator, bracket, & belt.

There is a ground wire that goes to the block for now leave this attached and set the alternator in the bottom of the engine compartment

(The alternator bracket bolt is one of the bigger 14mm Timing chain cover bolts.)

9. Disconnect the rubber cooling system hose from the metal tube that is directly below the power steering pump brackets.

(This allows the removal of power steering pump on the brackets.)

10. Remove the power steering pump along with the brackets and belt.

Set it aside in the engine compartment.

(Three bolts possibly another if it has a brace.

Now you see why we already removed the Distributor.)

11. Now you have the option of removing the alternator ground wire or leaving it attached.

12. Remove the A/C compressor (if present).

Actually the A/C compressor can be removed at any point up until now if it is in the way.

Early removal gives more room to work.

Unbolt the compressor and bracket and tie it out of the way, no need to remove the lines or discharge the system.

Note:

All accessories should be removed at this point.

Take a break and organize everything.

13. Remove the valve cover.

Unbolt any emissions stuff that can be removed.

The cover itself is held on with 4 cap nuts atop washer crowned rubber bushings.

(Hose and wire spaghetti will vary depending on the emissions setup.)

14. Remove the water inlet and outlet tubes bolted to the back of the timing chain cover on both sides of the water pump.

15. Remove the Water Pump.

Although only the 1 bolt in the middle of the water pump holds the timing chain cover on it is a lot easier to take it off now.

There is also one more bolt (not shown in the image below) behind/below the 'two water pipe bolts', so there are in total 18 bolts holding the cover in place, be sure all 18 have been removed before attempting to remove the timing chain cover.

16. Here you have two options:

Remove the whole oil pan, or just remove the two front bolts.

On 4WD/IFS trucks, you'll likely have to lower the front differential (without a 4' lift) to be able to remove the pan

Remove the one horizontal mounting bolt up front and the two vertical mounting bolts in back and use a floor jack to lower the front differential assembly.

Alternately, you can remove the motor mount bolts (2 per side) then use a cherry picker crane to raise the engine a few inches for clearance to drop the oil pan, if needed.

If you know or even suspect that a guide is broken, either this time or at some point in the long distant past, drop the pan and clean it out.

Why? Because that plastic debris can get into the oil pump pickup and cause a loss of oil pressure and since the timing chain tensioner is operated by oil pressure, you may be replacing the timing chain again (if not more) if that happens!!!

If you know it's clean just remove the two very front bolts.

17. Break loose the bolt holding the distributor drive gear and cam gear on.

DO NOT REMOVE IT

18. Remove the bolt holding the pulley on the crank.

Do NOT remove the pulley yet!

19. Set the engine to Top Dead Center.

With the vehicle in neutral turn the crank by until the timing guide 0 (ZERO) is lined up with the notch in the pulley.

Now you should see that the cam gear notches are at the top and that the raised rib on the crank is also at the top.

CAUTION: The 22R line of engines are an interference style engine.

Meaning if the valves are open when a piston is in the up position they will collide.

Therefore you must be VERY careful and keep the cam gear and crank perfectly aligned.

20. Put the Vehicle in gear and Remove the pulley from the crank.

You may need to use a gear puller to break it loose.

21. Remove the oil pump.

(Some of the oil pump bolts also hold the timing chain cover on.)

22. Remove the oil pump drive gear.

(Make note of the way it installs.)

23. Remove all remaining bolts on the face of the Timing chain cover.

24. Remove the bolt, and distributor drive gear on the front of cam gear.

(Do not remove the cam gear yet)

25. Remove the famed hidden timing chain cover bolt that is not mentioned in any shop manuals even the Toyota shop manual.

(Yes I will break the cycle and tell you where it is.)

Right in front of the cam gear, directly below where the distributor drive gear was is a small pool of oil hiding the bolt.

(See why it is so easy to miss.)

26. Remove the timing chain cover.

Tap the sides of the cover with a plastic tipped hammer to break it loose.

Clean and inspect the cover for damage.

Make sure the chain did not eat all the way through to the coolant chamber.

27. Remove the Chain guides and Tensioner.

28. Very carefully remove the cam gear and chain.

*Be sure not to rotate either the cam or crank out of sync or else it is valve crunch time.

29. Remove the crank gear.

*Again be very careful not to rotate the crank.

30. Install your new crank gear.

*Again be very careful not to rotate the crank.

31. Install the new cam gear and chain.

Put the chain on the cam gear drop it down through the top carefully putting the chain on the crank gear and lining up the darker links on the chain with the marks on the gears.

Read the next paragraph for more on proper chain alignment & tension.

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT

*Chain tension placement is crucial in making the guide install easy.

Since the engine rotates in a clockwise pattern the driver side should have the most tension and the passenger side the slack.

If you look at the way the guides install you will see the driver's side has virtually no slack and the passenger side has a lot.

To achieve this you need to find the proper alignment of the chain on the gears then very carefully preload the cam gear/valves by placing a punch in the hole on the top the cam and twisting the cam ever so slightly clock wise to get the cam gear on.

After it is on, very gently twist it back to the original position which will tighten up the chain on the drivers side.

32. Bolt the cam gear and distributor drive gear down to prevent it from popping off.

However you will have to take it off later to put the hidden timing case bolt back in.

33. Install the new passenger side guide.

2000 Toyota Camry Timing Marks Pdf Free Download

If the chain is on right it should only take a little tug to line up the bolt holes.

If necessary you can use the punch to rotate the cam a little.

Torque the guide bolts to 14-16 ft-lbs.

34. Install the new drivers side guide.

If the chain is on right it should only take a little tug to line up the bolt holes.

If necessary you can use the punch to rotate the cam a little.

Torque the guide bolts to 14-16 ft-lbs.

35. Install the new tensioner.

Compress it and then bolt it down.

Bolt torque is critical, 12-14 ft-lbs is the max. you want to use, more and you will distort the tensioner body and cause the tensioner arm to be sticky.

36. Clean the timing chain cover.

Be sure to get all of the old gasket off and wipe down the mating surfaces with carb cleaner to remove the oil residue so the new silicone sticks.

37. Clean the block surface where the timing chain cover mounts.

38. Install the timing chain cover with new gasket.

You can use some silicone sealant or the FIPG where the timing chain cover meets the head and head gasket if the head was not removed. Basically you want to seal up the corners.

39. Carefully remove the distributor drive gear and put the hidden bolt back in.

40. Put the distributor drive gear back on and bolt it down.

Line up the rotor to where it was pointing when you removed it and set the distributor to the mark you made before removal, this will get it close to the correct timing.

The rotor should end up about centered on the #1 cylinder contact inside the distributor cap.

41. Install the water pump and new gasket.

42. Reattach the coolant inlet and outlets located at sides of water pump on the back of the timing chain cover.

43. Tap the oil seal out of the front of the oil pump and install the new one.

44. Install the oil pump drive gear.

45. Install the oil pump with new O-ring.

46. Install the oil pan and new gasket or FIPG

If you just removed the two front bolts put them back in.

47. Put the valve cover back on with a new gasket. Be sure and reattach any hoses or wires you disconnected.

48. If you did disconnect the ground wire off the alternator reconnect it now.

49. Install the power steering pump.

50. Reattach the upper alternator bracket.

See below for the orientation.

P/S bracket wraps around underneath the water pump outlet pipe/hose.

The alternator tension brkt. sits int he middle of the p/s bracket

Note how the brackets and tensioners attach to the various timing cover and head bolts and captive nuts on the other brackets.

Power Steering Bracket

P/S and alternator detail

51. Put the coolant hose back on the tubes below the power steering pump.

Be sure all the hose clamps are oriented to clear the brackets and to allow future removal if the need arises.

52. Put the alternator back on the mounts.

53. Put the distributor back in and take a guess at the timing.

Helpful to have scribed a mark where it was before you removed it.

54. Put the pulley back on the crank and torque it to 130lbs.

55. Put the belts back on the vehicle and adjust them properly.

56. Put the radiator back in the vehicle and connect the hoses.

57. Fill the vehicle with 60% coolant 40% water.

The best way to do this is a gallon of coolant than fill the container with water and keep adding it as the radiator drops.

Filling the cooling system can take a while so just be patient.

It also helps to have the vehicle parked on a slight uphill slope so the radiator is the highest point in the cooling system.

58. Fill the vehicle with oil.

59. Install distributor

Install with engine at TDC for a 22R or 5° BTDC for a 22RE/REC/RET

Set the distributor at the 12 o-clock position

Upon insertion, it'll turn ~35° CCW and the timing will be close

60. Start up the vehicle.

The timing is probably off since the distributor was moved.

To get the vehicle to idle smoothly adjust the distributor freehand or set the timing the right way.

With the timing test connector (TE+ E+) shorted, set the timing to 5° BTDC on the 22RE engine

With the vacuum line disconnected from the distributor, 0°BTDC on the 22R engine

Be sure and watch for good oil pressure and change your oil and filter after about 2000 miles

And warm the engine up with the radiator cap off and the heater control to full heat until the thermostat opens.

This will ensure any air pockets are flushed out of the cooling system.

Top off the coolant as needed before installing the radiator cap.

Author: Tim Macy

Edited: Roger Brown

If you would like to use this document or any of its contents for any publication, ask permission first.

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Visitor #501048 since 18.MAY.2002

[Last updated: 12.January.2017]

VVT-i, or Variable Valve Timing with intelligence, is an automobilevariable valve timing technology developed by Toyota. The Toyota VVT-i system replaces the Toyota VVT offered starting in 1991 on the 5-valve per cylinder 4A-GE engine. The VVT system is a 2-stage hydraulically controlled cam phasing system.

VVT-i, introduced on the 1JZ-GTE/2JZ-GTE engine in 1996, varies the timing of the intakevalves by adjusting the relationship between the camshaft drive (belt or chain) and intake camshaft. Engine oil pressure is applied to an actuator to adjust the camshaft position. Adjustments in the overlap time between the exhaust valve closing and intake valve opening result in improved engine efficiency.^[1] Variants of the system, including VVTL-i, Dual VVT-i, VVT-iE, VVT-iW and Valvematic, have followed.

VVTL-i[edit]

VVTL-i (Variable Valve Timing and Lift intelligent system) (also sometimes denoted as VVT-iL or Variable Valve Timing and Intelligence with Lift) is an enhanced version of VVT-i that can alter valve lift (and duration) as well as valve timing. In the case of the 16 valve 2ZZ-GE, the engine head resembles a typical DOHC design, featuring separate cams for intake and exhaust and featuring two intake and two exhaust valves (four total) per cylinder. Unlike a conventional design, each camshaft has two lobes per cylinder, one optimized for lower rpm operation and one optimized for high rpm operation, with higher lift and longer duration. Each valve pair is controlled by one rocker arm, which is operated by the camshaft. Each rocker arm has a slipper follower mounted to the rocker arm with a spring, allowing the slipper-follower to freely move up and down with the high lobe without affecting the rocker arm. When the engine is operating below 6000-7000 rpm (dependent on year, car, and ECU installed), the lower lobe is operating the rocker arm and thus the valves, and the slipper-follower is freewheeling next to the rocker arm. When the engine is operating above the lift engagement point, the ECU activates an oil pressure switch which pushes a sliding pin under the slipper-follower on each rocker arm. The rocker arm is now locked into the slipper-follower's movements and thus follows the movement of the high rpm cam lobe and will operate with the high rpm cam profile until the pin is disengaged by the ECU. The lift system is similar in principle to HondaVTEC operation.

The system was first used in 1999 Toyota Celica with 2ZZ-GE. Toyota has now ceased production of its VVTL-i engines for most markets, because the engine does not meet Euro IV specifications for emissions. As a result, this engine has been discontinued on some Toyota models, including that of the Corolla T-Sport (Europe), Corolla Sportivo (Australia), Celica, Corolla XRS, Toyota Matrix XRS, and the Pontiac Vibe GT, all of which had the 2ZZ-GE engine fitted. The Lotus Elise continues to offer the 2ZZ-GE and the 1ZZ-FE engine, while the Exige offers the engine with a supercharger.

Dual VVT-i[edit]

The Dual VVT-i system adjusts timing on both intake and exhaust camshafts. It was first introduced in 1998 on the RS200 Altezza's3S-GE engine.

Dual VVT-i is also found in Toyota's new generation V6 engine, the 3.5-litre 2GR-FE first appearing on the 2005 Avalon. This engine can now be found on numerous Toyota and Lexus models. By adjusting the valve timing, engine start and stop occurs almost unnoticeably at minimum compression. Fast heating of the catalytic converter to its light-off temperature is possible, thereby reducing hydrocarbon emissions considerably.

Most Toyota engines including the LR engines (V10, used in the Lexus LFA), UR engines (V8), GR engines (V6), AR engines (large I4), ZR engines (medium I4), and NR engines (small I4) now use this technology.

VVT-iE[edit]

VVT-iE (Variable Valve Timing - intelligent by Electric motor) is a version of Dual VVT-i that uses an electrically operated actuator to adjust and maintain intake camshaft timing.^[2] The exhaust camshaft timing is still controlled using a hydraulic actuator. This form of variable valve timing technology was developed initially for Lexus vehicles. This system was first introduced on the 2007MY Lexus LS 460 as 1UR engine.

The electric motor in the actuator spins together with the intake camshaft as the engine runs. To maintain camshaft timing, the actuator motor will operate at the same speed as the camshaft. To advance the camshaft timing, the actuator motor will rotate slightly faster than the camshaft speed. To retard camshaft timing, the actuator motor will rotate slightly slower than camshaft speed. The speed difference between the actuator motor and camshaft timing is used to operate a mechanism that varies the camshaft timing. The benefit of the electric actuation is enhanced response and accuracy at low engine speeds and at lower temperatures as well as a greater total range of adjustment. The combination of these factors allows more precise control, resulting in an improvement of both fuel economy, engine output and emissions performance.

VVT-iW[edit]

VVT-iW (Variable Valve Timing - intelligent Wide) was introduced with the 2.0L turbochargeddirect-injected8AR-FTS fitted to the Lexus NX200t. VVT-iW uses VVT-iW on the intake valves and VVT-i on the exhaust valves. The intake cam has mid-position cam lock mechanism that retards the continuously variable timing. It offers expanded valve opening angles (Wide) which enables the engine to operate in a modified-Atkinson cycle at low rpm for improved economy and lower emissions, and in the Otto cycle at high rpm for better performance, while delivering high torque throughout the rpm band.^[3]

Valvematic[edit]

The Valvematic system offers continuous adjustment to valve lift and timing and improves fuel efficiency by controlling the fuel/air intake using valve control rather than conventional throttle plate control.^[4] The technology made its first appearance in 2007 in the Noah^[5] and later in early-2009 in the ZR engine family used on the Avensis. This system is simpler in design compared to Valvetronic and VVEL, allowing the cylinder head to remain at the same height.

VVT-i Oil Supply Hose Issues[edit]

In 2010, Toyota USA announced a Limited Service Campaign (LSC 90K) to replace the rubber portion of the oil supply hose for the VVT-i actuator on the 2GR-FE (V6) engine, which were found to be defective. In all, approximately 1.6 million vehicles manufactured prior to 2008 were affected. The defective oil supply hoses were prone to degradation and eventual rupture, causing oil to rapidly leak and resulting in permanent engine damage.

In 2014, the LSC 90K Campaign was extended to 31 December 2021^[6] on 117,500 Toyota brand vehicles that were 'missed' during the initial campaign.

See also[edit]

• Gasoline Direct Injection (Toyota D4 and D4-S)

References[edit]

1. ^'Variable Valve Timing Mechanism on Toyota'. YouTube. 2006-09-10. Retrieved 2009-06-29.
2. ^'Lexus LS engine page'. Archived from the original on 2009-05-03. Retrieved 2009-09-29.
3. ^'Camry in Europe features new 2.0L engine with VVT-iW.' Green Car Congress. 2014-09-05. Retrieved 2016-06-27.
4. ^'Toyota Develops Next-generation Engine Valve Mechanism — 'Valvematic' Achieves High Fuel Efficiency and Dynamic Performance —'. TOYOTA. 2010-06-12. Retrieved 2009-06-29.
5. ^Nunez, Alex (2011-07-01). 'Toyota Noah / Voxy: Valvematic for the people (movers)'. Autoblog.com. Retrieved 2009-06-29.
6. ^'Extension of Limited Service Campaign (LSC) 90K'(PDF). US: Toyota. Retrieved 2016-10-08.

External links[edit]

• Video animation of VVT-i can be found here (courtesy of PT. Toyota-Astra Motor, Indonesia)